Huge monster waves crashing on the rough shoreline;
A surfer's paradise, yet a swimmers treacherous adventure.
Pounding relentlessly on the jagged rock outcroppings,
The waves force the rest of nature into submission.
My heart is pounding as I wait out in the breakers;
Seeking that adrenaline rush of that perfect wave.
Knowing in the recesses of my brain that I could wipeout,
As I sit on my board, selecting that wave for the ride of my life.
I see on the horizon out at sea the roll of that awesome wave;
That one wave that is my destiny, that one wave that is my delight.
My heart is beating in my throat as the roll approaches my board,
Until it arrives with a powerful surge, I enter the wave perfectly.
I am up on my board, thrilled to have my timing honed to this wave;
I enter into the curl, as the wave begins to break; I run under.
My speed is faster than I have ever experienced before as I ride;
The wave's curl rises four feet over my head; cowabunga, dude!
I am ripped from the underside off my board; I tumble in the ocean.
My lungs burn for a breath as I am trapped under the crashing wave;
Until I'm able to push to the surface for a gasp of fresh sea air, ahhh!
I am exhilarated, tingling in every cell, I have ridden the surfer's delight.
I am so ready for summer!
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